DESIGNERS AND AGENTS LOS ANGELES, OCTOBER 2011 – A FULL HOUSE AND A MIXED BAG

Here we are again in downtown Los Angeles for the October 2011 LA Fashion Market Week where we are focusing on the Spring 2012 collections, and filling in with end of year immediate goods – if we are lucky enough to need them.

In the U.S., Spring deliveries begin at the end of January and usually run through the end of March. Spring deliveries are crucial for most West Coast designers and manufacturers. With a natural emphasis on clothes for the warmer climate, Spring (and the flow on of designs for Summer deliveries) is usually make or break.

De Lacy is a good example. Bridget De Lacy is the designer and owner of De Lacy, a distinctive women’s contemporary collection based around item pieces that can be worn day or night, casual or dressy, and transition from season to season. Bridget thinks that her March delivery is one of the two most important of the year (the other being September): “Things are heating up, stores have sold through all their Fall and Winter deliveries and their sales are done. Plus De Lacy offers jersey which is a great transition fabric.”

Each LA Market Week, on the usually vacant third floor of the New Mart, you’ll find the Designers and Agents showcase – designersandagents.com.

Known in shorthand as “D&A”, it describes itself as “an independent, international trade fair for collections and retailers who define the cutting edge in fashion and life style. Identifying emerging talent and creating an intimate, synergistic environment that fosters relationships between designers and buyers, each of D&A’s shows in Los Angeles and New York (which typically attract 3,000 retail and media visitors) are pre-edited, art-directed, and merchandised to create a sense of camaraderie and discovery.” All of which means, it sells itself as a hip and happening place to buy and sell … and I would have to agree.

This week the 3rd floor is full. There are over 100 booths with the usual eclectic mix of fashion forward men’s and women’s basics, separates and denim, shoes, hats, bags, jewelry and accessories. Some of the most notable collections and trends are:

• The color palette for Spring is at both ends of the spectrum with bright and neon pinks, reds, yellows and oranges hanging with greys, dark blues and black. Color Story (represented by the Aubrey Company) is a good example.
• Collections are being given depth and texture by the use of fleece, linen and wovens to hang along with the usual cottons, silks and rayons. Patterns are popular. Fluxus is using the range of colors and fabrics to beautiful effect.
• Medium sized bags are all the go – natural and colored leather, tribal and fringed, woven and geometric pattern. I liked the look of 49 Square Miles.
• Those large floppy sun hats that your Mum wore in the 70′s just keep on keeping on as do the short brim “Mad Men” style hats for men. Check out Christy’s London and Eugenia Kim.
• The semi precious stone boho chic look in jewelry never gets old. There is plenty on offer.
• It was fantastic to see Marithe + Francois Girbaud still at the forefront of contemporary ready-to-wear. They are only showing men’s this week. The collection is sleek and clean with their usual innovative use of design and color – like constructed v-neck tees with an inside chest pocket. Check out their website – it’s brilliant!
• The popular Genetic Denim was as busy as ever in their 4th year doing D&A.
• The Brasil Fashion section is small with only about 10 collections in 7 booths. There was nothing that really caught my eye.

This was not one of my more memorable D&A shows. While the collections were of the usual quality, nothing really jumped out at me. There was plenty of buyer traffic when I was there. And I’m sure that will continue until the D&A ends on Wednesday afternoon.

Paul Brindley

www.paulbrindleyconsults.com