Sunday, January 15, 2012

TAKING THE PULSE OF LOS ANGELES FASHION RETAIL


Following on my recent blog about U.S. retail sales during the past holiday season and with the first Los Angeles Market Week for 2012 starting tomorrow, I thought I would take a wander around some fashion retail districts in LA and take their pulse.

3rd Street
I met all-around Fab Person, Tracy Engelien of Tracy Engelien Sales at Joan’s on Third last Monday morning for an excellent coffee, and to plan out the day. Tracy’s own collection of basics, Boxie, is gaining momentum. We’ll have much more about and from Tracy in a coming blog.
We started right there on 3rd. We checked out longtime residents like Polkadots & Moonbeams, Noodle Stories, Douglas Fir and it’s shoe store, DF Feet – nothing much has changed there.
I liked the raw denim and workwear styles in the relatively new store, Civiliannaire. Civiliannaire, with two stores in LA and one in Montecito, is the new project from the guys that brought us Lucky Brand. The store manager, Akul told us that they are looking to expand their retail operations then focus on wholesaling – they already sell to American Rag, East Street Denim, and Atrium in NYC. Akul was very happy with their December but said that January had been slow.
Another store on 3rd worth browsing is the celeb-fav Lotta Boutique. Lotta designs her own prints and jewelry, and is known for her batik and tie-dye tunics and kaftans.
The clean, bright Turkish flavor of distant makes you feel like you are somewhere near a beach in the Eastern Mediterranean. 100% organic fabric textiles, handmade ceramics and jewelry, and one-of-a-kind pieces are their specialty.
Maybe it was this particular Monday but the vibe on 3rd was slow.

Robertson Blvd
Next we headed to where many people who shop LA do, on Robertson Boulevard in Beverly Hills. They could be renaming it “Kitson Blvd” now that there are fourKitson stores in 2 blocks – the original Kitson, Kitson Kids, Kitson Men and Kitson Studio. Fraser has presided over the creation of an empire since opening the first store in 2000.
One of the pioneers of this upscale retail street, Lisa Kline has closed completely after downsizing steadily from her women’s and kid’s stores to just men’s. The men’s store shuttered on December 16. Lisa is moving on to a new online project, Vaniti.com that launches in February. Lisa Kline was fixture on the street and such a “get” for designers for so long, it is ominous to see her gone. The John Varvardos store is also out.
The Australian collection Zimmermann brightens up the street with it’s beautiful swimwear and  flowing styles.
The Boho chic of LF Stores is huge with young fashionistas.
Intermix and 7 Jeans were glowing with neon styles.
The London collection, All Saints is cashing in on the comeback of the tough, workwear look for men. Their women’s is edgy and very structured using substantial materials. Their accessories stylishly mix heavy glass, crystal and metals.
The Lauren Moshi pop-up shop is a real treat. On display are the original art pieces that translate directly into their clothing collection. Each garment is itself an original artwork. It is a truly unique collection. The pop-up store should be there for another month or so. Get in and take a look while you can.
Lauren Moshi pop-up store on Robertson Blvd, Beverly Hills
All in all, Robertson was busy for a Monday. The Ivy was full. And there were customers in every store we visited. Those with the cash are obviously still shopping.

The Grove
We took a quick spin around the Grove. It was packed due to a TV taping near the fountain that included Mario Lopez and other minor celebs.
Nothing much seemed changed except M Fredric has moved on - Johnny Was is now in the space. Johnny Was, which has been around forever, continues to go strong and reinvent itself with a more contemporary look to go with the missy styles it is known for.
The Nordstrom here is a good one (despite there being a thick coat of dust on some of the menswear).
Regardless of the scrum watching the celebs do their thing, there seemed to be plenty of foot traffic and customers in stores.

Beverly Grove
Just up Beverly Blvd is Diane Merrick. Diane has been in business in LA for 40 years. I used to sell Wildlife Works to Diane when she was on Melrose in Beverly Hills.  Diane is a font of knowledge, and always a pleasure to catch up with.
She told us that she had a great Xmas season but that January had been slow. In the past, January had been a really good month for blowing out discount stock – not anymore. I asked Diane what she saw happening during 2012. She said she didn’t know but was sure that there will be less boutiques like hers. Coming from such an experienced, independent operator like Diane, it reinforces the concerns a lot of us have.
Our last stop was the unique row of 6 shops, Lost & Found. Each door has a different theme. In order, running west up Yucca Street, are children’s, men’s, home, women’s, gallery and gift. The stores have a hip, understated feel. Out on its own above Hollywood Boulevard, Lost & Found was well worth the trip. Apparently, their celebrity and working actor clients agree.
We popped back down to Loaded on Hollywood for a drink and to recap the day.
Unfortunately, we both came to the conclusion that what we had seen and heard only confirmed our doubts for fashion retail in 2012.
It is going to be very interesting at this LA Market Week to see and feel the mood of the showrooms and buyers. I hope to be reporting on some optimism but I’m certainly not optimistic.
Paul Brindley

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