Showing posts with label men's contemporary apparel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label men's contemporary apparel. Show all posts

Friday, July 8, 2016

REVIEW: Agenda Long Beach Trade Show, June 29-30, 2016

It was all systems go at the unofficial launch of the Spring 2017 season round of apparel trade shows last Wednesday and Agenda Long Beach, June 2016Thursday with Agenda Long Beach at the Long Beach Convention Center.
The busiest period of the fashion week and trade show year will continue through the end of October with major stops in Miami, Las Vegas, New York and Los Angeles.
The original street, skate and surf focus of Agenda has expanded and diversified steadily over the past 5 years to include contemporary and progressive men's and women's brands in Agenda WMNS and The Woods sections, personalized accessories in Pin & Patch, grooming and personal items in The Essentials, and industry service providers in Agenda Resource. Read more about each section here.
The broadening mix of brands at Agenda brings together industry veterans, today's apparel movers and shakers, buyers of all stripes, sales agents from across the spectrum, millennials chugging beers at 10AM, and kids on skateboards. It is a fascinating cross section of the industry. There are bodies in constant motion in every direction to the accompaniment of chatter and laughter, DJ-ed beats, and the clatter and scrape of skateboards. The bars and food trucks inside are never short of customers.
The sights and sounds create a frenetic energy that gives Agenda Long Beach a party feel. But there is still plenty of business done. Most of the brands and sales agents that I spoke to were very happy with the amount and quality of the buyers seen.
Some eyecatchers for me were:
The famous LA heritage brand, Kennington
The famous LA heritage brand, Kennington
Kennington has been doing it right for 60 years. They sport their famous prints and colors in a contemporary, slim fit body for their younger customer and their time tested regular fit in long and short sleeves. I particularly like the Flume Short in three colors and the jackets in three bodies - Bomber, Garage and Safari - that they are doing for Spring 2017.

Gypsies & Debutantes at Joken Style booth
Gypsies & Debutantes at Joken Style booth
Eme Mizioch of Joken Style Showroom was super excited by the response to Gypsies & Debutantes' bags. The bags are beautifully constructed with paneling made from re-purposed traditional women's blouses from South America. They had seen buyers from Diane's Beachwear, Fab Fit Fun and Crossroads.

Giving Bracelets benefits Court Appointed Special Advocates (CASA) for Children
Giving Bracelets benefits Court Appointed Special Advocates (CASA) for Children
The soft leather, metal and electro-plated crystal adjustable bracelets and necklaces from Giving Bracelets are unisex, comfortable and empowering to wear (I haven't taken mine off). 10% of the proceeds go to support Giving Bracelets benefits Court Appointed Special Advocates (CASA) for Children. Wholesale prices start at $13.50 with no minimums.

The Wayward Collection by JanSport catching the higher end, natural look
The Wayward Collection by JanSport catching the higher end, natural look
I was impressed by the new Wayward Collection from JanSport. JanSport has captured a natural eco-look with subtle colors and prints to appeal to the higher end of the market.
They were two very strong days at Agenda. The activity bodes well for the upcoming wholesale selling season. I am looking forward to the reports from shows in New York and Miami in July. I will be blogging from Las Vegas in August. I am expecting Vegas to be the strongest show since the 2008 financial crisis.
Paul Brindley
paul brindley consults

Thursday, May 26, 2016

It’s the End of the Department Store as We Know It? It Better Be

When was the last time you shopped for clothes or accessories at a department store? And when I say department store, I mean nothing short of a Macy's. Let's not count the popular secondary department stores like Marshalls or Ross or the department stores' own secondaries like Nordstrom Rack, Macy's Backstage and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5th.
If or when you did last grace the departments, did you linger and walk the floors like the good old days? Or was it a smash and grab raid like you were shopping online? Could you live without department stores in your shopping life? After all, you have never had more buying options for apparel or just about anything for that matter.
I ask these questions because you may have to consider life with fewer or even (well down the road, if ever) no department stores. The business press has been reporting the on the struggles of the US department stores for some time now. Recent poor financial results have increased the pressure on some big names.

The Business of Fashion just posted an excellent article on the subject, Why American Department Stores Are ‘Broken’.  Macy’s saw a 5.6% drop in year on year sales for the first fiscal quarter of 2016; Saks Fifth Avenue was down 5.7 percent, and the usually invulnerable Nordstrom dipped 1.7%.
Why are they broken?
  • Retail in general is struggling despite all the usual economic parameters for strong retail sales currently set in 'Go' mode. The Business of Fashion outlines the reasons in another excellent article, "Why Aren't Americans Shopping". I couldn't put it any better, so I won't except to say that we live in a very different retail world post the 2008 Great Recession (aka "The GFC" or "The Global Financial Crisis", as it is known elsewhere).
  • Department stores haven't changed they way they do business in practice or look and feel for years. Walk into any department store today and it looks like it did 20 years ago. Just buying up the next popular online site or simply posting more content on social media or having sales staff working off iPads and or jazzing up your advertising will not cut it in this millennial world. Its all about customer engagement. Even the edgiest marketers are still figuring out how to effectively influence millennials. I do like "The 5 Ways to Sell to Millenials" on Inc.com:
1.  Authenticity matters most
2. Realize you'll be fact-checked--almost before you finish.
3. Make your point, and then shut up.
4. Make your message an emotional story.
5. TV? What's TV?
Department stores are way behind the game.
  • I heard an industry type on NPR last week state that many in the department store upper echelons have been in the system for their whole careers and that they may little or no feel for the new world of retailing. I'm not sure about this take. Surely someone involved in the running of a premium department store like Saks or Nordstrom or Bloomingdales is staying abreast of all the selling, promotional and demographic trends and needs. If not, then there will be some hefty pink slips making the rounds.
  • Competition is fierce, very fierce. Marshalls and Ross are as busy as ever with both recording healthy increases of year on year sales for Q1 2016. We all know that traditional bricks and mortar apparel retailers have been losing business to the online sellers for a long time now. The scope and pace of the e-commerce effect is broadening and quickening daily. But its now not only the Amazons of this new brave new world that are throwing shade. Retailers now need to contend with popular re-commerce sites like thredUP which are essentially online thrift stores that allow you return good for free within a certain amount of days, and fashion share sites like Rent the Runway where you can rent clothes and send them back.
Where to from here for the premium department store chains?
I think we will see a significant physical and influential downsizing of the department store presence in the market while they attempt to polish their customer engagement by returning to what set department stores apart years ago - the destination shopping experience.
The department store experience should include:
  • good quality restaurants and coffee shops pitched to the spending power of their demographic. E.g. Macy's would have a cafeteria, Nordstrom would have something more upmarket. I would give them a mid-century modern look to hark back to the 50's movies where people often seemed to be eating and drinking at the department store before or after a spot of shopping.
  • personal shoppers, spa services, and parties for regular customers
  • pop-up shops spotlighting new, innovative products.
  • more store-in-stores run by the brands themselves along the European department store model.
  • friendly and attentive sales staff
  • easy and efficient return policies
  • more bounce and pep to the look and feel of the stores. They should get ultra modern or mid century or something out of the ordinary.
  • and most importantly when it comes to apparel, more focus on the products that people are wearing now and not what they will be wearing in 3 months. I agree with the Business of Fashion piece that calls for enough of "the “early” retail deliveries, which are increasingly out of sync with the physical seasons and result in markdowns during what should be peak selling periods, hurting full-price sales potential. “As it stands, Pre-Fall clothes are delivered from April through July, while Autumn/Winter clothes are delivered from July through October,” BoF reported in March. “Heavier items like outerwear and knits are often deeply discounted in January when cold weather finally hits.” 
I am sure it seems inconceivable to many that we could exist in a retail environment without department stores. They have been the big fish of the retail world for 150 years.
Fortune.com ran an article in January titled ominously, How American Department Stores Are Fighting Extinction. They concurred with many of the points that I suggested above.
Do I think a mass extinction is imminent? No. But things are going to have to change and change quickly. Department stores better figure out how stay connected and relevant or they will be left way behind in this ever evolving, ever accelerating retail environment and may not catch up.
Paul Brindley
Principal Adviser
paul brindley consults

Friday, February 5, 2016

US Economy in 2016 - Steady As She Goes?

About this time last year, I wrote an article cautioning against the then prevailing over-optimistic posture of most of the financial and apparel industry press that 2015 was going to be the bumper year leading us all to prosperity.
The broad insistence of the enthusiasm was alarming. The fundamentals of the US economy didn't jibe with the predicted boom. Jobs growth was slow and of questionable quality, wages growth non-existent, consumer confidence was lagging, the financial market was manic depressive. Where was this supposed surge going to come from? How was it going to be paid for? Was there to be another credit bubble?  Not again. Not another cycle of boom and bust. I could hear the words of the Credit Manager of the bank I once worked for echoing down from the barren post-1987 crash years, "This will never happen again". Well, he has been at least 5 times wrong since. And the last one nearly saw the whole place circle the drain.
Twelve months on, we are thankfully getting a much more sober appraisal of the economic year ahead. The party line this year is that the economic trends of 2016 should mirror those of 2015. The US will see steady progress up an easy gradient of an estimated 2% growth while the rest of the world at best staggers along a flat path.
What can we expect during 2016?
  1. Weak Retail Sales - U.S. retail sales declined in December to ensure the weakest retail year since 2009. I bored everyone with the obvious in last year's article (and ad nauseum elsewhere) by reiterating that the most significant driver of retail sales is disposable income. Right now, if people have it, they aren't spending it. Rising healthcare and housing costs are exacerbating the continued weak wages growth for those who have decent paying jobs. Many people are scraping by. The jobs growth figures appear strong with an official unemployment rate of 5% which is technically full employment. No-one believes this number. But even if this were true, wages growth is lagging badly. If you are thinking of opening a bricks and mortar store, you better be a 1000% sure that you have the right product(s) at the right price for the right market and that you have a good quality, well targeted online presence, otherwise, don't do it. I have retail clients and friends with retail stores in popular shopping districts in the greater Los Angeles area. Things are not good, and haven't been for a while. The holiday season was a bust with a low year on year increase of 2-3% (below the National Retail Federation prediction, as usual), with early discounting, and with no last minute boost as experienced in previous years. We are waiting on January's figures.
  2. E-commerce keeps clicking - web retail totalled more than $350B in the US for 2015. The US Commerce Department reports that internet retail accounted for 7.5% of total retail sales in 2015, up from 6.5% in 2014. For 2016, expect improvements in the functions of mobile online shopping such as slicker browsing and check-out processes, expect more relevant content coming your way than ever before through a more personalized online experience, expect more video content, and expect to see more social co-creation in 2016, especially in the apparel and accessory e-commerce sector where shoppers can drop their templates into existing designs and actually alter the designs of existing products and come up with personalized one-of-a-kinds.
  3. Careful with the plastic - there have been disquieting reports of the levels of household debt recently. a December 2015, Time.com article states, "Even after accounting for inflation, household debt has jumped 15% faster than income over the past dozen years." They quote a new study by NerdWallet“After the significant dip following the recession, there was a lot of talk that Americans were using their credit cards better,” says NerdWallet credit expert Sean McQuay. “The numbers aren’t showing that. Americans are taking on more debt.” After the near meltdown of 2008 due to the overloading of debt, this news beggars belief.
  4. Continued social and political dysfunction - with a general election in November and with the delibitating influence of crazed nativists and religious militants both at home and abroad, we can expect continued social discord and political gridlock in the US. There is much handwringing in the US about the absence of legislation expected out of Congress this year as the Republican majority ensures no good and all bad for the White House and Democrats. There is not much to be done about this. With our rigged and corrupt political system and our polarized, irreconcilable social values, the best we can hope for is a Democrat to win the November election and at least keep the inmates from running the asylum.
  5. Which way the US housing market - most analysts believe the only way is up. Southern California saw a price increase of about 15% in 2015. The Real Deal website reports, "San Francisco prices are up 79.2 percent since 2009. Atlanta is up 53 percent. Phoenix, up 47.1 percent. Denver, 42.6 percent. Los Angeles, 49.7 percent. The magnitude of these gains rivals what we saw during the nuttiest portions of the 2000s bubble."  The article goes on to state that "Don’t call this a bubble — mortgage borrowing is still low by historic standards — but things are changing. Consider a new type of mortgage San Francisco Federal Credit Union recently promoted. In response to “skyrocketing home prices” hampering affordability, the bank is offering a no-money-down mortgage with an adjustable interest rate and without requiring private mortgage insurance. Even 2005’s mortgage market would blush at those terms." Prices will have to cool at some stage. Many analysts believe we are reaching that point.
  6. All eyes on China - some analysts believe that the China Syndrome the world caught in the last half of 2015 has passed while others are still concerned that a full blown contagion is still in the air. All agree that the Chinese economy will continue to slow. The positive take is that as China transitions both from a manufacturing-led to a consumer-led economy, and from a state-directed to a free market, it's economic growth is hopefully slowing to a slower and more sustainable rate. A crash would be disastrous. China is such a big force in the global economy that the so-called "hard landing" that some predict would have a severe affect. Just last week, George Soros told an economic forum in Sri Lanka: "China has a major adjustment problem. I would say it amounts to a crisis. When I look at the financial markets there is a serious challenge which reminds me of the crisis we had in 2008." Eek.
Soros isn't the only doom and gloom merchant abroad. Some think the housing market in the US is overvalued by at least 25%. Others are, like Soros, think China's convulsions are more serious than growing pains. Many think the US stock market is grossly overvalued. The Royal Bank of Scotland recently told their clients to “sell everything” because “in a crowded hall, the exit doors are small.”
Any one of these could occur. Who knows? For now, steady, sustainable growth is fine by me. The most important component of the "sustainable" is cash funded, not debt funded. We are in desperate need of more living wage paying jobs, and for more jobs with some wages growth. Until the population feels it has that bit extra to spare, it will not be shared around and the economy will continue to inch along.
My deepest concern is the outcome of the US presidential election. While I think Obama has been too lenient with Wall Street and the banks after their disgraceful and criminal activities leading up to the 2008 crash. And we don't have a single payer health care or an expanded Medicare system, despite Obama explicitly campaigning and winning a strong mandate for health care for all. I believe he has done a remarkable job. Severely restricted by a bought and paid for Congress, he has run a pretty tight economic ship while paying for and winding down wars, keeping a gutted economy upright and ensuring the weakest and poorest aren't completely forgotten.
He has also repaired some of the damage done by Bush and Cheney and their outlaws abroad. Obama's "lead from behind" strategy in geo-politics is ridiculed in the US as weak but praised almost universally around the world as a relief. The world is done with the US bursting into the joint and blasting away like a drunken cowboy (or dry-drunk in George W's case).
We are slowly gathering some positive momentum. A lurge to the right now by would be a disaster economically, socially and diplomatically.
Paul Brindley
Principal Adviser
paul brindley consults